Anaphe or Epanaphe Textiles

Sanyan Silk

Silk garments made from this type of silk have been made for centuries in West Africa, primarily by Yoruba people in Nigeria where it is the men who do the weaving (Clarke 1997). Textiles are woven as very narrow strips, which are then tailored together into larger pieces that can be used for clothing. The ipele is a woman’s dress or wrapper. A man’s robe called an agbada may also be composed of this silk. The holes woven into the cloth are called openwork.

Several species of silkmoths are involved in this form of sericulture. They belong to the genera Anaphe and Epanaphe (Gaede 1928). Some entomologists consider these genera to belong to the family Thaumetopoeidae (Pinhey 1979), the processionary caterpillars, but others consider that group to be a subfamily (Thaumetopoeinae) of Notodontidae. The caterpillars construct communal bagnests and these are the source of the silk. They have been greatly over-exploited in the 20th century, which coupled with deforestation, resulted in this type of sericulture becoming a thing of the past. Today the silk is substituted by kugu, which is cotton that has been dyed to resemble the wild silk. Garments made of the prestigious silk (and now the brown-dyed cotton) have great ceremonial significance in Yoruba culture, and the pieces are worn primarily on special occasions such as weddings, funerals, etc. Collectors seeking genuine sanyan silk must obtain vintage (pre-1970) or antique pieces, which are occasionally offered on the internet. Some of the foodplants commonly cited for the caterpillars include wild coffee (Bridelia micrantha), tamarind (Tamarindus indica), and obeche (Triplochiton scleroxylon). The obeche is one of the most important timber trees in West Africa.

Description: An ipele (the Yoruba word for shawl) of sanyan silk (Anaphe sp. Or Epanaphe sp., Notodontidae) from the town of Ondo (in Ondo State), Nigeria, made circa 1900.  Purchased in April 2009 from Duncan Clarke, an authority on African textiles, who said it has an unusual pattern.

Production Location: Nigeria

Measurement:

Ipele
ipele close up

 

Anaphe and Epanaphe Moths

Anaphe infractaAnaphe infracta

Anaphe panda

Anaphe panda

Anaphe reticulata

Anaphe reticulata

Epanaphe carteri

Epanaphe carteri

Epanaphe clara

Epanaphe clara

Epanaphe clarilla

Epanaphe clarilla

Epanaphe moloneyi

Epanaphe moloneyi

Epanaphe subsordida

Epanaphe subsordida

Epanaphe ventata

Epanaphe ventata

References

Clarke, D.  1997.  The Art of African Textiles.  Thunder Bay Press, San Diego.  128 pp.

Gaede, M.  1927, 1928.  Saturniidae, pp. 313–347, pls. 48–59 (1927); Thaumetopoeidae, pp.
395–400, pl. 68 (1928), in A. Seitz, editor, The Macrolepidoptera of the world, vol. 14: The African Bombyces and Sphinges.  Alfred Kernen Publisher, Stuttgart.  600 pp., 80 color plates.

Pinhey, E. C. G.  1979.  Moths of Southern Africa.  A. A. Balkema, Rotterdam.  273 pp., 63 color plates.